Plus size tailoring

Tailoring is for gentlemen of all shapes and sizes with the real aim being to highlight your assets and hide what you don’t like. If you often have to buy plus size clothing then there are some hints and tips that can help to make you look and feel better in the clothes you’re wearing. 

Cut 

It’s important that the cut is flattering and not overly baggy. It may be more comfortable to have extra space but this wont make you look as good as you can do. To have fabric snug around your stomach and arms can work to create light between them, giving the appearance of a more slender physique. 
    
However, this does not mean that the tighter the better, having pull lines from the buttons is not a good look for anyone.

Shoulders

Having broad shoulders on a jacket can draw attention away from areas you want to hide. This is something that a good tailor will highlight with you. Considerably larger shoulders would not be suitable but squarer shoulders can make your waist appear smaller. 

Trousers

Baggy suit trousers can give the impression that you are bigger than you actually are. Having fitted trousers with a suitable hem, will not only feel comfortable but will make you look great too.

Colour

Choosing colours that will improve your figure is important. Black has always had the reputation of being able to hide your physique. However, a charcoal, dark grey or navy colour is equally as flattering. Most importantly wear a colour you feel comfortable in as feeling good will make you look better. 

Length 

The length of the jacket should be enough to cover the largest part of your bottom. A jacket which is too long in length can make you look drowned in fabric and appear bigger. The length of a traditionally cut jacket should reach your thumb when your arm is relaxed. If you are below 6" it is important not to have a jacket too long as it will make you look smaller and larger. 

The combination of these tips will hopefully help you to get the best fitting suit. Sometimes just by doing one of them can make all the difference. The next time you purchase a suit, why not have it made-to-measure to ensure you are always looking your best.

What kind of party doesn't have a DJ?

I don't want to use the c-word too early but.....it's 9 weeks till Christmas! 

You can picture it now can't you? Sitting down on Christmas day - you've got you're huge turkey in the oven, wrapped Head & Griffiths presents are under the tree, copious amounts of booze chilling in the cellar. But wait - what are you going to wear to all those glamourous events you've been invited to?

Well, a dinner jacket naturally. It is perhaps the quintessential item for any man's wardrobe. Whether you hire or have purchased a dinner jacket, ready-to-wear items can all look very much the same. However, how about a made-to-measure dinner jacket?

Although there are some rules to black tie dress, there is considerably more room for variation unlike white tie dress which is typically worn at banquets, balls and if you're in the mood, the opera. Why not choose a wool cashmere black cloth with a subtle birdseye pattern? Perhaps a black silk trim or collar? It could even be double breasted. No one said the lining had to be black so why not opt for a rich purple silk lining?

Double breasted jackets

Double breasted jackets are back again this winter. The intention of the double breasted jacket originally was to hide a fuller figure. However, now the cut is much has been brought right up to date. 

Now, its all about broad shoulders and slim cuts - highlighting the ideological masculine physique. Opt for a longer lapel line that extends into the waist. This will create height and a slimmer waist. This more contemporary cut paired with some traditional cloths - pinstripe, herringbone and houndstooth - will give your jacket that 'classics with a twist' look.

You’ll also be pleased to hear that you can revive your waistcoat from the depths of the wardrobe this season as we see more and more men in three-piece suits. Similarly with the double breasted jacket, in order to highlight a slim waist you want to have a waistcoat with a deep v-shape. However, for the style conscious individual, waistcoats with more than five buttons and a shorter v-shape are really big this season.

Shirt cuffs

Whether it be a single or double cuff there are a number of ways you can inject some personality into your shirt cuffs. Monogramming shows that your shirt is made just for you. Some people don’t like to have it however there are other ways to show character as well. 

A flash of colour or an alternative pattern or fabric inside a double cuff offers interest. Together with a set of colour co-ordinated cufflinks works really nicely. Why not go one step further by cutting away some of the outer fabric to reveal more of the colour beneath? Either at the corner or even a strip along the top can be a unique twist depending on your preference. You could even have your silk jacket lining inside the cuff.

Buttons are such an understated part of any shirt but can make a massive difference turning a plain white shirt into a personalised garment that you’re proud to wear. Why not match the buttons on the cuff with a tie you like? All off this can be achieved with a little thought and the right tailors. 

Different coloured button holes can be another way to show your personality through your shirts. The subtlety of a navy shirt with complimentary coloured button holes, matched with monogramming will show time and care has been taken.

Matching cuff with collar has a “wideboy” reputation but done well can look great. Subtlety is the key here also - use a fine check with white cuffs and collar, or perhaps a thin striped fabric.

The cuff should not be overlooked when buying a shirt. If you have the chance to get shirts made for you, then why not try some of the things I have mentioned?

Castro's Dumb & Dumber Suit

We don't just make suits for work. One of the great advantages of having a Head & Griffiths suit is that we can pretty much cater for everything . All of our garments are completely made-to-measure, so it doesn't matter whether you're as thin as a stick or built like a rugby player.

Martin Castrogiovanni who plays for local rugby team Leicester Tigers, came to us with the idea of getting a made-to-measure suit which replicated the style of Jim Carrey's infamous orange suit in the film Dumb and Dumber. It was worn over the summer, so we opted for a much lighter orange linen cloth, complete with linen cummerbund and bow tie. His orange sorbet cotton shirt with linen ruffles really completed a look I guess only Castro could pull off!